Looking Back Pt. 2 – Athens

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As I explained in my last Looking Back post, my birthday trip for 2015 included New York, London and Athens. Today, I thought I would post a few thoughts/observations from my time in Athens.

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I was not expecting the smoking issue here. It seems Greece passed a smoking ban in restaurants in 2010, which was marginally enforced and then abandoned completely during the recession. Now, it is not clear which restaurants follow the law and which don’t. I learned of all of this when, on my first night here, the host was dragging me into the “smoking area.” I felt like I had gone back to North Carolina in the 1980s of my youth. I asked for non-smoking. But is there really any such thing as a non-smoking “section” of any restaurant that allows smoking?

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I’ve enjoyed the food here: it has been high quality and very reasonably priced. But most of the dishes have been familiar and unsurprising until tonight when I had milk pie. Milk pie! Remember it because you will not want to miss it. It’s reminiscent of chess pie and buttermilk pie from the south with a phyllo crust. The filling is somewhere between cheese cake and cooked custard with a honey sweetness. Amazing! I don’t know why I have never seen it on a menu at a Greek restaurant in the US unless it’s because it’s difficult to make. Getting the consistency of the filling just right could be tricky, I imagine.

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Last night while at dinner a 20-something man and woman were seated near me. At first I thought they were on a date, but then I realized he was way too excited to be with her (straight men don’t act like that) and she had that demeanor that says, “I’m glad to be hanging out with you but I know I’m not getting any later so I’m not that thrilled.” It was comfortingly familiar and made me miss my female friends.

It also made me ponder why gay men cling to their female friendships probably more than women cling to gay men. Maybe as women progress in their struggle for their own rights and as straight men respond to that changing dynamic, gay men offer less of a novel perspective. As straight men become more like their gay counterparts in the way that they view what constitutes masculinity, they are much less threatened by those strong women that have most often been the gay community’s greatest allies.

So where does that leave us as gay men? While straight men necessarily have access to that female energy within their romantic relationships, gay men don’t. We have to seek out those friendships with women that are crucial, I think, to having a balanced and healthy emotional life.

Despite all those heavy thoughts, as I left dinner and the conversation at the nearby table regarding life, work, and boyfriends, I couldn’t help but smile.

Looking Back -February 2015

I wrote this in February of last year but didn’t publish it. I love looking back on impressions from past trips because there is so much that is forgotten with the passage of time, like ennui and burning pizza!

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Two years since my last post. That sounds like a long time in the abstract, but is it really when lived? Two years ago I had gotten back from a less than satisfying trip to New Orleans because of interference from work. I’ve always prided myself on being able to travel unencumbered with professional pressures; yet, my last trip to NOLA in February of 2013 changed all that. I’ve since realized that, as I’ve gotten older, I’ve become subject to the same petty but persistent demands – experienced by most – of the paying gig. Since then, I’ve traveled for work, which has to be to most cruel punishment of all created by Beelzebub to torture the lover of travel. I’ve also gone home for the holidays and had a couple of short trips.

But now, I’m on the last week of a true vacation. No work. No work email. For three weeks. I’m living like a European.

So why do I feel so unsatisfied? I’m in Athens. I spent five days in New York. I went to the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show for the first time, which was as much fun as I expected. Yay, doggies! And then five days in London.

I do feel like I’ve spent most of my time willing myself to relax and disconnect. Why don’t I feel it? Have I built up this trip so much through anticipation that it has inevitably disappointed? I feel like I’m working at relaxing. What has happened to me? Where has the real me gone?

I have moved around more than I had planned. I caught a cold at the end of the New York portion so stayed in a hotel for the first couple of days in London (rather than subjecting friends to nasty, American germs). I’m now in my second hotel in Athens because my first was hosting kids who have never stayed in a hotel before and wanted to stay up all night slamming doors and burning pizza – the fire alarm went off at 4 a.m. Isn’t the first time without adult supervision magical – for you but not for everyone else? And it was expensive. And not in central Athens.

So now I have a view of the Acropolis and have a non-rainy day tomorrow. If the gods smile, I’ll be able to avoid tourists and enjoy the marvels of ancient Greece in relative peace. I’m still waiting to completely relax. Maybe I just haven’t had enough Ouzo yet. Now there’s a worthy goal.

Still Thinking About Katrina

Photo courtesy of natcom.org

Photo courtesy of natcom.org

The Presbytere museum at Jackson Square has an ongoing exhibit on the Katrina disaster, Living with Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. Stark and moving, the exhibit uses a multi-media installation to familiarize the visitor with New Orleans’s long history of hurricanes while focusing on the most infamous one of all. Continue reading

Dining in New Orleans

Sylvain

For those of you in doubt, I can assure you that French Quarter dining is thriving. On each visit to New Orleans, I’ve tried to have at least one new place on my list of dining spots and, in recent years, have avoided dining in the Quarter as it seemed that most of the exciting new spots were popping up in other neighborhoods. As that’s no longer the case, this time I visited two new(ish) places in the Quarter. Continue reading

Celebrating New Orleans

Jackson Square

Jackson Square

Anyone who knows me or has read my older posts is familiar with my deep connection with New Orleans. Most of my visits to New Orleans have been solo, but it has been about 4 years since my last such trip and I’m feeling the need for the boost to my spirit that only New Orleans can provide. Continue reading

Just Blew in from the Windy (and Foggy) City

I recently returned from a few days in Chicago. We had one really cold day (I’m sure the locals would have a hearty laugh at my description of 40 degrees F as cold). Despite the weather, we took a river tour of Chicago’s architecture on our second day there, which I highly recommend. Continue reading

Alone

Although I love dining out in all its permutations, I’ve determined that I could never be a restaurant critic. I don’t pay enough attention to the details of a meal and instead focus on the overall impression, especially when I’m with good company and having a nice conversation with wine and spirits and warm fuzzies. Who remembers what that 4th course was in that context? And after a nice Armagnac, who cares? Continue reading